The Troodos rewards the traveller who picks one village and stays put. It is a mountain of many small villages, so where you sleep decides how the whole trip feels. This is how we would think about it.
How this guide was made
Every guide on Greecyz says what its opinions rest on. Here, we stayed two nights in Kalopanayiotis at our own expense, and visited a winery in the valley. Omodos, Platres and Kakopetria are researched from published sources, not visited for this guide.
First, decide how you will move
Troodos villages look close on a map, but public transport links them awkwardly. A journalist who tried to travel the mountains by bus, reported by the Cyprus Mail, found no direct service between Omodos and Platres, which are about 15 minutes apart by car. Rural buses are less frequent than town services.
Our advice is simple: rent a car, even for a day or two. Roads are narrow and winding in places but signposted, so drive unhurried. If you cannot drive, choose a village you can walk around and treat the rest as a bonus.
Our pick: Kalopanayiotis
Stayed. Kalopanayiotis sits in the Marathasa valley at about 700 metres, on the banks of the Setrachos river. It has thermal springs, stone lanes, a 16th-century Venetian bridge and the Kykkos watermill, a protected monument. The Monastery of Agios Ioannis Lampadistis, on the UNESCO World Heritage list, has three Byzantine churches with frescoes. Walking and cycling trails start from the village.
We spent two nights in a village house with a view of the mountain. It was not luxury, and that was the point: it was calm, simple and very good for a couple. We found the house online and phoned the owner, who was kind and relaxed. She told us where the key would be, and settling the payment was left to a simple arrangement.
That kind of informality is lovely, but do not count on it. Always confirm arrival time, key arrangements, payment and cancellation terms in writing before you travel.
Visited. Near the village is Marathasa Wines, a family winery that has replanted abandoned vineyards around Kalopanayiotis. Check opening times before you go. Pedoulas, at about 1,100 metres in the same valley, is known for its cherries and churches and is an easy addition.
If you want wine and easy touring: Omodos
Researched. Omodos is one of the best-known villages in the Troodos, with narrow stone streets, vineyards around it and the Monastery of the Holy Cross in the centre. For its size it has many tavernas and wine bars. It offers more accommodation than most mountain villages, mostly apartments and small guesthouses, and it is roughly 45 minutes to an hour from Limassol by car. It works well as a base for a first tour of the mountains.
If you want hiking and cooler air: Platres
Researched. Platres is a hill resort at about 1,100 metres. Locals come up for weekend trips, and in winter it serves as a base for skiers. The best-known walk is the Kaledonia Trail, which leads to a waterfall. It is about 15 minutes by car from Omodos, so the two can share a trip.
If you want an old village and walks: Kakopetria
Researched. Kakopetria lies in the Solea valley and suits travellers who like heritage and short walks. The Vateri Trail starts near the centre, and just outside the village stands Agios Nikolaos tis Stegis, an 11th-century monastery church known for its painted walls and ceilings. If you prefer quiet, look for a place to stay outside the busy centre.
When to go
Higher villages are cooler than the coast, which is why locals head up for weekends. In winter, Cyprus runs a Christmas villages programme in mountain communities. Dates change each year, so check the official programme before you plan around it.
Good to know
Choose one base. Moving every night costs more time than it gives.
Ask before you arrive. Small places often have no reception desk, so agree arrival times and key handover in advance.
What comes next
This guide is about choosing where to base yourself. In our Hotel Insider Reviews we will look at individual places to stay, always with the same standard: what we saw first-hand, and what we only researched.
Looking for a mountain base in mainland Greece? Read our guide to Syrrako in Epirus.
Please confirm locally before you travel.
Short on time? Lania, a hill village above Limassol, makes an easy half-day, and we wrote it up here.
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